The Seiko SKX - Ref: SKX007/009

This is not the first article of its kind, and certainly won’t be last, but let’s revisit one of the, alleged, worst kept secrets in the field of Horology. The Seiko SKX is, without question, the best value timepiece money can buy. Let’s get one thing straight, we are talking value, pound for pound, power to weight, before any of the Omega brigade jump on my case brandishing their Seamaster Professionals.

Brandish [Verb] “to wave or flourish something (especially a weapon, or Omega Seamaster) as a threat or in excitement”. Nailed it.

It’s a popular topic, covered by many, not least the Giants at Hoodinkee who deem it “the single best value at any price point, in an automatic watch that fits all the criteria of the infamous ISO 6425”. But here’s the Urchin take on it nonetheless, a mere David to Hoodinkee's Goliath.

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Cast your mind back to my last article, the Seiko Sea Urchin SNZF17. Here we have another modern divers watch which, unsurprisingly, contains the same basic ingredients as the Prodigal Son himself, the Rolex Submariner. The SKX can be viewed as the next step up in the Seiko dive line, priced around the £200-225 mark, depending on your decision to settle for the K variant, or shoot for the more sought after SKX007J.

So what are you actually getting for your money? Honestly, a lot. A whole lot of ISO 6425 rated, 200m waterproofed, screw down crowned, unidirectional bezeled, 7S26 automatic Seiko magic. It’s pretty too, prettier than the SNZF17, with a more refined and less complicated look overall. The SKX is the pinnacle of form and function.

One of the SKX trademarks is the crown, located at 4 o’clock, rather than a more standard 3 o’clock position found on most divers. I prefer it, after all the SKX is another everyday beater and the 4 o’clock crown gives it a much comfier feel on the wrist. The standard bracelet is a jubilee, which has been known to divide opinion. It’s considerably more flexible than an oyster, which is again great for comfort, but the looser links do produce a certain level of jangle. But have no fear, the options for aftermarket straps and bracelets are endless, and I mean endless.

It’s all business in the back as well, the solid stainless steel case has a premium feel coupled with a good weight to give it some presence on the wrist. The solid case-back is embellished with the classic Seiko Wave at the center, opting away from the clear window revealing the inner workings. It's fair to say a crystal case-back is a nice touch on an automatic, a glimpse into the engine room, but it wouldn't sit quite right on the SKX, after all this watch is functional excellence without the faff.

Like the SNZF, the SKX houses a notoriously bullet-proof Seiko 7S26 automatic movement, an unrelenting cart horse that refuses to tire. The 7S26 is widely hailed as one of the simplest and most efficient automatic movements around, thanks to Seiko's clever, bi-directional winding, Magic Lever system. In fairness, I should mention that the SKX doesn't hack or hand wind like some of the higher end models, but is it a deal breaker? Honestly, no. Simply picking it up from the desk will set the second hand in motion and it's got great run-time if you wear it regularly enough.

Undeniably Seiko have a rich history of dive watches, and although it wasn’t technically the first, the grandfather of the Seiko dive line was the legendary 6105 featured in the classic movie Apocalypse Now, but that’s a topic for another day. The SKX’s direct ancestor is the Seiko 7002 Scuba Diver, and despite some upgrades, the two look very similar side by side. Essentially, Seiko have created one hell of a watch here, which is unsurprising given how long they’ve been in the game.

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At this point, if you still need to justify pulling the trigger on an SKX, think about it in terms of price per meter, which I realise is a slightly unconventional measure, but bear with me here. Sure the Seamaster will dive to 300m, but it’ll cost you £3000 to get there, and I make that £10 per meter. Even if you pay £225 for your SKX, which let’s be honest you won’t given the likes of Amazon are always having a sale, that’s a humble 88p per meter, case closed. Ultimately it’s up to you, but even if Seiko were asking £500 for the SKX I’d still buy it, its bloody good.

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The Seiko SKX is, in essence, a middle finger to the overpriced, over decorated, overrated, dive watches that saturate the market. A true Working Class Hero in every sense.

The Urchin Report